Silicones! These days, they’re a big topic that concerns all of us to some degree. As the controversy grew, I started looking into the subject. But one thing I never do when it comes to cosmetics is follow a trend without understanding the ins and outs of the issue. After all, not all silicones are technically the same.
Personally, I used products containing silicones in my facial skincare, haircare and make-up.
I’d always liked the results they gave me: smooth, clear skin; vibrant, glossy, coated hair; and make-up that stayed perfectly in place. So why stop using them? And, more importantly, what could I use instead?
Why did I stop using silicones in hair products?
In hair products, their coating effect actually suffocates the hair. Beneath the layer of silicones, the hair fibre gradually deteriorates and “dies”.
I haven’t stopped using silicones in facial products altogether. When I do use them, I favour mineral-derived silicones such as dimethicone. With a double cleanse in the evening — first removing make-up, then cleansing — silicones are thoroughly removed and have no negative effect on my skin. On the contrary, they’ve been shown to help active ingredients absorb or support the skin barrier’s protective function. I still make sure they offer a real benefit to the product beyond simply improving its texture or formulation.
I’ve made the same choices with make-up: I haven’t banned silicones entirely, but I’m careful about how much I use…
Be warned: when you stop using silicones, there’s an adjustment period…
The first silicones I stopped using were those in my hair products. As with any drug (yes, silicone is the drug of cosmetics!), I had to go through a “withdrawal” phase.
And this detox was quite drastic: it showed me the real effect silicones had on my hair. The result was… disastrous. A hair nightmare!
I went from using silicones in everything (shampoo, mask, treatment oil) to avoiding them completely. On the plus side, it revealed the damage to my hair that had been hidden beneath that layer of silicones. And one thing’s for sure: it wasn’t pretty.
At the time, my hair was long, very blonde and heavily highlighted, so it was particularly damaged. After that first test, what lay underneath was even worse. My hair was completely dried out, with broken, split strands. Silicones do make hair look better: they coat it, forming a layer on the surface that gives it a smooth, shiny, controlled appearance. But they’re just covering up the damage!
… But it’s really worth it!
After about six weeks, washing my hair twice a week, I rediscovered what my hair was really like: fine and straight, with a scalp that got oily after two days. But it was also shiny, healthy, supple and light. Throughout this detox, I paid attention to what my hair needed to understand what was happening.
My routine to make up for the coating effect of silicones
Normally, the ideal haircare routine includes a shampoo suited to your scalp and treatments that address specific needs (dehydration, dryness, colour…). But during a detox, you need to make up for the effect of silicones by using more nourishing products throughout your routine. Think butters and plant oils
(not mineral oils, mind you… or it’s back to square one!)
For me, the product that saved the day was undoubtedly Leave-In Treatment
Rahua, and it’s still one of my favourites today. You apply it to damp, towel-dried hair and/or after drying, whether naturally or with a hairdryer. Today, I’d also turn to the Nourishing Shampoo
and Conditioner
Grown Alchemist range to make up for the silicones. (The brand hadn’t yet formulated these little gems when I was rethinking my haircare!) I use them whenever my hair feels a bit like straw.
Does that mean you should never use them again?
After detoxing your hair, it’s best not to return to a routine containing silicones. Of course, you can use them occasionally, for example at the hairdresser’s or for a special event. (If you want very shiny lengths or a sleek, slicked-back look, it’s admittedly hard to do without a silicone-based serum…) In that case, I pay particular attention to cleansing: I start with an oil treatment using Leonor Greyl Oil or Raw Coconut RMS Beauty, then I shampoo my hair, and that does the trick!
For facial skincare and make-up
With these two types of product, the adjustment is much less noticeable. Some people may find silicones comedogenic, but that depends on the silicones and, among other things, the type
of make-up removal involved.
For my part, I’ve mostly cut out “chemical” silicones. If they’re in a product other than a moisturiser
or make-up primer, I prefer to avoid it. I don’t think silicone belongs in a serum that’s meant to absorb into the skin
rather than stay on the surface to form a protective barrier.
But when I need protection, want to help active ingredients absorb
and smooth my skin’s texture, I stick with natural silicones. That’s the case with my powder foundation (which is therefore 100% natural): Pure Pressed Base
Jane Iredale. Likewise, when I want my complexion to look flawless all day, I still use silicones occasionally in my make-up primer.
For everyday use, though, I’m discovering great alternatives to silicone-based primers, such as Perfect Canvas
Ren Skincare
, which impressed me with how well it moisturises
and smooths the skin and helps make-up last longer.
The Selection
Rahua
Leave-In Treatment
Leonor Greyl
Leonor Greyl Oil
RMS Beauty
Raw Coconut Cream
Jane Iredale
PurePressed Base SPF20
