As the seasons change, skin can change too, showing signs of imbalance such as small spots and blackheads. It’s time to make a few adjustments to your routine. To be effective, an anti-blemish routine needs to suit your skin type. Even the best mattifying or purifying product can have a negative effect if it’s too strong or doesn’t suit your skin’s sensitivity.
What causes blemishes to appear?
Blemishes are caused by several interconnected factors:
- The epidermis thickens. Cell renewal slows down. As a result, skin loses its clarity.
- Excess sebum builds up. Skin becomes shiny and pores may appear enlarged.
- A bacterium (known as Propionibacterium acnes) multiplies rapidly and alters the skin’s pH, causing imbalance and sensitivity.
Together, these three processes cause localised inflammation, putting our skin’s resilience to the test. It’s worth noting that blemishes don’t only affect acne-prone skin: dry skin, combination skin or sensitive skin can also develop occasional spots and enlarged pores.
Facial blemishes: what can you do?
Blemishes and sensitive, redness-prone skin: how should you treat them?
In this case, it’s something of a vicious circle. With sensitive skin, the surface barrier is compromised, leaving skin inflamed and reactive (with small spots and widespread redness). This can be made worse if the skin has undergone an acne treatment that was too strong or lasted too long. The right approach? Don’t treat your skin with anti-blemish products (which are generally formulated for oily skin); use products for sensitive skin instead.
A routine to purify and soothe your skin
Soothe skin from the make-up removal stage with the Cleansing Balm Oh My Cream Skincare, formulated with coconut oil, known for its antibacterial properties. Follow with a foaming cleansing gel (but one without sulphates), the Evercalm Gentle Cleansing Gel Ren Skincare. Gentle on the skin, it is also suitable for dry skin.
Even sensitive skin needs gentle exfoliation, particularly with the Exfoliating Powder from Oh My Cream Skincare. This gentle exfoliant comes in powder form and helps smooth skin and tighten pores while remaining gentle on the skin. If you have atopic skin, skip this step.
Continue the treatment phase with a soothing serum such as Sea Aster & Wild Oat Anti-Redness Serum Pai Skincare. Rich in oats, it calms reactions and helps get skin back on track. And if a previous routine has left skin particularly damaged, apply Redness Relief Essence Dermalogica beneath your serum. Alcohol-free, this refreshing, gel-textured lotion harnesses the soothing power of aloe vera.
In the morning, use Calm Water Gel Dermalogica as your day cream: a refreshingly light gel-cream that hydrates, soothes and helps reduce redness. Feel like your skin needs more comfort? Geranium & Thistle Balancing Day Cream Pai Skincare hydrates the skin while also helping calm inflammation.
For the evening, turn to a facial oil: Optimal Skin Omega 3 Serum Ren Skincare delivers a generous dose of soothing active ingredients (omega-3s are champions at calming inflammation). Real comfort for even the most irritated, reactive skin!
Blemishes, oily skin and enlarged pores: how should you treat them?
Excess sebum production and thickening of the epidermis are the two main factors at play. We also know that the bacterium Propionibacterium acnes thrives without air (deep in the pores) and feeds by breaking down skin lipids. Oily skin is therefore its favourite environment. The right approach? Don’t strip the skin, which risks making it sensitive and overstimulating the sebaceous glands. Cleanse gently and use mild treatments consistently over time.
A routine to purify and mattify your skin
When removing makeup, leave micellar water behind for good: it strips the skin without really purifying or cleansing it. Instead, opt for a double-cleansing routine with PreCleanse Dermalogica, a cleansing oil that dissolves impurities and makeup and thoroughly removes SPF products.
Follow with the Cleansing Gel from Oh My Cream Skincare, a foaming gel that helps tighten pores thanks to the salicylic acid and zinc it contains.
In the morning, protect your skin with a lightweight face cream, Clarifying Moisturiser Tata Harper. Skin stays well hydrated and blemishes are kept under control. If your skin doesn’t get on with essential oils (found in the Tata Harper product), Universal Cream Oh My Cream Skincare is the perfect moisturiser: hyaluronic acid to plump, a touch of apricot oil for comfort and no fragrance!
Each evening, sweep a cotton pad soaked in Ready Steady Glow Toner Ren Skincare over your skin for gentle exfoliation. Its fruit acids also help target dark spots for a more even-looking complexion without blemish marks. Then apply a small amount of Anti-Blemish Serum Oh My Cream Skincare to the affected areas (or even your entire face). Made with zinc, arnica and silver, this emulsion can be applied morning and evening beneath your moisturiser or night cream. As a bonus, aloe vera extract helps soothe and hydrate weakened skin.
And for flawless-looking skin, apply a few drops of Correcting Oil Oh My Cream Skincare each evening. It clarifies the complexion and helps prevent blemish marks.
Blemishes and dehydrated skin: how should you treat them?
Here again, it comes down to a compromised skin barrier. Oily skin can become dehydrated, particularly if it is regularly stripped. So avoid alcohol-based toners and harsh blemish treatments in favour of gentler formulas that work better over time.
The right approach? Don’t reach straight for nourishing products for quick relief: your skin needs water. For great-looking skin, choose oil-free formulas that help control blemishes and leave skin looking plumper.
A routine to purify and hydrate your skin
Here too, skip micellar water or an overly harsh cleansing foam. Start purifying as you cleanse with Cleansing Oil Oh My Cream Skincare, which helps purify and protect against pollution and is formulated without parabens. Then massage in Cleansing Milk Susanne Kaufmann, a very fluid milk that cleanses thoroughly.
In the evening, apply Promise Keeper Sleeping Blemish Facial by Allies of Skin, alternating it with BioRegenerate Wild Rose Oil by Pai Skincare. The advanced treatment from Allies of Skin provides gentle exfoliation, while the oil helps protect the skin.
For your serum step, gently pat on one pump of Copaiba & Zinc Anti-Blemish Serum Pai Skincare. Its purifying and deeply hydrating action helps skin look clearer with continued use.
Dehydrated skin needs water, so give it plenty with Active Moist Dermalogica, an oil-free gel-cream that smooths dehydration lines and also makes an excellent makeup base.
What if I’m also dealing with the first signs of ageing?
Sometimes hormonal changes cause upheaval and trigger a sudden outbreak of blemishes (particularly on the chin and jawline), just when you least expect it. Don’t panic! New skincare formulas designed to address both concerns are starting to arrive.
First, be consistent and stick to a thorough double-cleansing routine in the evening, using a makeup-removing oil or balm to remove makeup, such as the Cleansing Balm Oh My Cream Skincare, followed by a cleansing gel or milk such as the Clarifying Cleanser Tata Harper.
For exfoliation, turn to the skin-renewing power of fruit enzymes combined with fruit acids. Leave the Glycolactic Skin Renewal Radiance Mask by Ren Skincare on for 10 minutes. This exfoliating mask removes dead skin cells and evens out the complexion for smooth, flawless-looking skin.
For hydration, choose the Vanilla Pod Nourishing Day Cream Antipodes, which combines antibacterial manuka honey with a comforting base of shea butter and plant oils. For maximum effectiveness, apply a serum that addresses both concerns underneath it morning and evening, such as AGE Bright Clearing Serum Dermalogica. Salicylic acid and pine extract help tackle small spots and blemish marks while helping skin retain its youthful appearance. A real innovation!
Finally, in the evening, use a facial oil with balancing properties, such as Pure Marula Oil by African Botanics, for around-the-clock care.
Extra tip: 3 products for every skin type
- A clean, non-comedogenic concealer that doubles as foundation and under-eye concealer, with buildable coverage: Un Cover-Up RMS Beauty.
- An SOS treatment to dry out and clear up blemishes: Clarifying Spot Solution Tata Harper.
- A face mask that purifies and cleanses, to use 1 to 3 times a week: the Deep Cleansing Wheat Germ & Cranberry Mask Grown Alchemist.
Remember to apply sun protection every morning: it’s essential for keeping skin looking good and helping prevent dark spots that appear after a spot has healed. What’s more, this one step does double duty by also helping prevent wrinkles and loss of firmness!
Want to learn more? Explore our features dedicated to blemish-prone skin, including our complete anti-blemish guide and our journal article on how to tackle blemishes when autumn arrives.